© Photo: Léon Dijksman
When people think of the Ardennes, they often think of poor roads and crowded parking lots. But what if I told you that three of the most impressive cities on the Meuse can be easily visited by train? For my last trip, I chose the Walloon capital Namur (Namen) as a strategic base. The goal: three cities, three citadels, and a significant amount of elevation gain.
Why Namur is the perfect ‘hub’
Namur is not only the seat of the Walloon Parliament and the capital of the province of the same name, it is also a major railway junction. This makes the city the ideal ‘basecamp’. You stay in a city with all the facilities (charming terraces, excellent restaurants, and beautiful architecture), while being in the heart of nature or another historic city within half an hour.
I opted for an Airbnb in the historic center of Namur, within walking distance of the railway station. The big advantage of traveling by train? No parking stress in narrow streets, and you can enjoy a local beer with peace of mind after a strenuous hike before taking the train back.
Three Cities, Three Citadels
My journey was centered around the ‘Citadel triathlon’. Although the citadels of Namur, Huy (Hoei), and Dinant share a common history, the experience in each city is completely different.
1. Dinant: Panoramic tranquility in the woods
Dinant is the postcard of the Meuse Valley. Most tourists crowd near the church or take the stairs up to visit the Citadel. It is built onto a rock, close to the city center, 100 meters above the water level of the Meuse. Since the end of the Second World War, the citadel has housed a historical museum. However, the true charm of Dinant is found when you leave the Citadel and head into the woods.
- The Hike: Instead of following the beaten path, I chose a walk through the forested rocky slopes surrounding the citadel. Using the Komoot app, I found my way along beautiful winding paths. I descended to the ‘Fonds de Leffe’ and arrived at the abbey where the famous abbey beer of the same name originated. The silence of the woods, interspersed with sudden glimpses of the Meuse and the iconic saxophones in the depths below, made this an absolute recommendation. From Leffe, I followed the Meuse to the village of Yvoir to take the train back to Namur.
2. Huy: Conquering the Mur (off-road)
Huy is world-famous among cycling enthusiasts for the ‘Mur de Huy’. The Mur is the toughest climb in the Flèche Wallonne cycling race. It is usually climbed multiple times during the race. Since 1985, the race has finished at the top of “the Mur”. But did you know you can also conquer this legendary slope in an adventurous way?
- The Hike: I left the asphalt behind and looked for a winding forest path leading upwards. It was a tough climb, but it is incredibly satisfying to reach the top through nature. A visit to the Fort of Huy was also worthwhile, if only for the magnificent views over the city, the river, and the Meuse.
3. Namur: The grandeur of the capital
Of course, you cannot skip Namur itself. The citadel here is massive, a city in its own right. You can wander for hours along the old ramparts and enjoy the view over the confluence of the Meuse and the Sambre. It is the perfect place to end or even begin your trip.
Practical Tips for the Train Traveler
The convenience of this trip lies in the connections. From Namur, you arrive at your destination faster than you can set up your navigation:
- Namur – Huy: ± 18 minutes.
- Namur – Dinant: ± 28 minutes.
Plan your journey at belgiantrain.be
